Pink Lake (Lac Retba) from Dakar: Colour and Salt

Lake Retba, nicknamed the Pink Lake, sits northeast of Dakar and owes its striking colour to a microalgae, Dunaliella salina, whose effect shows up more clearly in the dry season and under strong light. The lake is also known for the artisanal salt harvesting still carried out there and for having served, for years, as the finish line of the Paris-Dakar rally. Travel time from the centre is worth checking before you set out, depending on traffic: leave in the morning and plan to come back for lunch or dinner at Point E, at Ge'eza.

Why the lake turns pink

The pink tint of Lake Retba comes from a microalgae, Dunaliella salina, which produces a particular pigment in water with a very high salt concentration. The colour is not constant: it depends on the daylight and the season, and tends to show up most clearly under strong sun and in the dry season. An overcast sky or low, slanting light can give a very different result from the photo you may have seen before setting out, which is part of the lake's charm and its unpredictability.

Water loaded with salt

Lake Retba holds one of the highest salt concentrations found in any natural body of water, which explains both the colour and the floating sensation felt by anyone who swims in it. Salt harvesting has long been carried out there by hand, and it remains an economic activity for people living nearby. It is a scene worth watching with respect, without getting in the way of those doing the harvesting.

A link to the Paris-Dakar rally

Lake Retba was long associated with the Paris-Dakar motor rally, for which it served as the finish line for many years. That history is part of the lake's international reputation, reaching well beyond Senegal, and many visitors still arrive with that image in mind before they see the site for themselves.

Planning the trip

A few pointers for planning the trip:

1. Leave in the morning. Morning light is often favoured for seeing the water's colour at its best, and it leaves the rest of the day free for an unhurried return.
2. Check your transport options before setting out, rather than relying on a single opinion found online.
3. Bring water and sun protection, since the site is largely in the open.
4. If you swim, rinse off afterwards, as the lake's water is extremely salty and can irritate skin or eyes with prolonged contact.
5. Respect the work of the salt harvesters, whose livelihood depends on the lake.

Heading back to Point E for lunch or dinner

After a trip to the Pink Lake, Point E is a simple way to close the day. Ge'eza is open there Tuesday to Sunday, 8am to 10pm, closed on Monday, so if your trip falls on a Monday, plan another spot for that particular meal. For lunch between Tuesday and Friday, the Senegalese dish of the day, 5,500 F with water or local juice and attaya, changes depending on the day of the week. In the evening, both the meat dishes and the vegan fasting dishes on the Ethiopian menu share well after a day spent outdoors.

A coffee ceremony to close the day

To end a trip to the Pink Lake on a calmer note, the full coffee ceremony at Ge'eza, 7,000 F per person, lasts around 45 minutes and is best booked ahead, especially for a group. It is a settled way to finish a day that often starts early and calls for a little quiet by the end.

Fitting it into a wider trip

The Pink Lake works well as a day on its own, but it can also fit into a longer stay. Our guide to 48 hours in Dakar sets out an itinerary for visitors passing through, and a trip to the lake can find its place there depending on the time available. If your visit falls on a Sunday, our article on Sunday in Dakar offers other ideas for the day, including a stop at Point E.

What cannot be promised from a distance

The lake's colour, access conditions and on-site activities can vary from one visit to the next, depending on the season and the day's weather. It is worth staying flexible with your plans and allowing extra time, rather than fitting a lake trip in right before a fixed appointment in town.

For your return

Whether you plan lunch or dinner, booking a table ahead, online or by WhatsApp, after a quick look at the menu, saves a wait after what is often already a long day, as the menu advises for evenings and weekends.