Dakar in the rainy season: what to do during the hivernage

In Dakar, the rainy season, known as the hivernage, runs approximately from July to October. The weather is hot, humid and punctuated by sometimes violent showers. The simplest approach is to keep some sheltered plans: museums, galleries, a good meal, a coffee ceremony. This guide gives pointers for organising your days during this period.

What to know about the hivernage

The hivernage is not a season of continuous rain. Days can be sunny, then a shower falls, often late in the day or at night, before the sky clears. The heat is more humid than in the dry season. After heavy rain, some streets can flood and traffic slows: plan for that in your journeys.

The exact months and intensity vary from year to year. Follow the local forecast and the advice of your employer or embassy.

Practical tips

• Leave margin on journeys. A shower can double a travel time.
• Avoid low-lying areas after heavy rain, and follow local news.
• Bring quick-drying shoes and a light layer against the damp.
• Protect your devices in a waterproof bag.
• Watch for mosquitoes. The wet season is a time to protect yourself: ask a doctor for advice suited to your situation.
• Stay hydrated. Humidity tires as much as heat.

Sheltered plans

When it rains, there is still plenty to do:

• Museums: the Museum of Black Civilisations and the IFAN museum are visits of several hours. Check their hours.
• Galleries: this is the moment to make the rounds of exhibitions. See our guide to art galleries in Dakar.
• Covered markets and shops: for a morning of shopping.
• Cafés and restaurants: a long, slow meal is a good answer to a shower.

A rainy day at ge'eza

ge'eza is a villa with a garden and terrace, but also a living room and gallery rooms where you can settle indoors. On days of showers, you can:

• Look at art: paintings, sculptures and textiles by artists from East and West Africa, with works for sale.
• Have an Ethiopian breakfast (8am to 11am): foul, chechebsa, genfo, enqulal tibs, warm and spiced dishes that comfort.
• Have lunch: from Tuesday to Friday, a Senegalese dish of the day (mafé, thieboudienne, supou kanja, chicken yassa) at 5,500 F. Supou kanja, a thick okra soup, suits cool, damp days.
• Warm up with a fasting dish, such as Shiro Wot or Misir Wot, simmered in a fragrant sauce.
• Take a break with the coffee ceremony: about 45 minutes, coffee roasted in front of you, served in three rounds, with incense and dabo.

We do not specify which areas of the garden are covered: ask the team if you want a sheltered spot.

Planning an outing on a rainy day

• Confirm the house is open: it is, Tuesday to Sunday, 8am to 10pm, closed on Mondays.
• Book: on bad-weather days, indoor tables fill up. Book online or on WhatsApp at +221 78 660 07 07.
• Arrange a driver or a taxi you know rather than walking.

For a group or a family

An indoor event lets you sidestep the weather: a birthday, a team lunch, a family gathering. See the spaces page and our article on family outings in Dakar.

The bright side of the hivernage

The hivernage has its charms too. Vegetation turns green again, the light after a shower is remarkable, and the city breathes a little after the dry months. Gardens and tree-lined streets, such as those of Point E, take on colours they do not have in the dry season. For those who like to observe, it is a photogenic season.

It is also a time to slow down: a long lunch, an unhurried gallery visit, a coffee that lingers. Accepting the rhythm the weather imposes is a good way to live Dakar as Dakar residents do.

Dressing for the hivernage

Choose light, quick-drying clothes and a thin jacket against showers. Open shoes are handy but not suited to flooded streets; a closed pair that dries quickly is safer. A compact umbrella remains useful, especially late in the day. Keep something to change into if you have an important meeting.

Health and comfort

Humidity can be tiring, so plan lighter days than you would in the dry season. Drink water regularly, favour breathable fabrics, and rest in the early afternoon if you can. Keep documents and electronics in a waterproof pouch. If you take medication or have health concerns, check with your doctor before travelling, and follow official health advice for the period. Planning gently is the surest way to enjoy Dakar even when the sky is grey.